Reflections on kimchi-making, inner strength, growing up hapa and knowing someone’s character through their hands | By Trish Broome (Fall 2024)
I was eight years old when my mom, brother and I moved from the American army base in Pusan, Korea to Newport News, Virginia. It was during the 1988 Seoul Olympics, and Korea was beaming with excitement and pride. But I wasn’t. My American father was staying behind to manage the officer’s club while the rest of us went to a strange new place. I would go from being a sassy, outgoing “mixed breed” in Korea to a shy, insecure and depressed “China Doll” in America.
My dad never moved back in with us. I later found out the move was the start of the divorce process for mom. She had put up with my father’s alcoholism for over 20 years, but infidelity is what finally did it for her. Even though my mom didn’t grow up in this country or have a lot of money, her experience living as an orphan and being a determined, single woman helped her raise her two children alone.
Right after the divorce, when I was in the sixth grade, is when I started writing. I would turn all of my English assignments into poems and write for hours to release the anger and depression built up inside of me. I won a sixth grade “Drug Free” rap and got an A+ on my first ever short story, “The Lousy Life of Lauren Lewis.” I wrote a lot of dark poetry (as most teenagers do) and used writing as a form of therapy.
I continued writing throughout college and adult years, mainly personal essays about being raised by a single Korean mother and being mixed race and living with mental health issues. My dad came back into my life just in time to see me get married and have his only grandchild. Then he died in 2016 within four months of discovering he had stage 4 lung cancer.
I spent years grieving over his death, and turned to drinking to escape the reality around me. When I got a DUI in February 2023, I finally realized I needed to break the cycle. So, instead of drinking, I turned to writing poetry. I have now been sober since March 1, 2023 and I write daily to keep my mind clear and my feelings focused.
The loss of my mother has been the hardest emotionally on me. I don’t think there’s a better way to describe how I feel about her than to share the message I posted on Facebook after she passed:
It is with a heavy heart that I share my mother, Bok Ja “Pepsi” Smith, passed away peacefully on July 4th at 2:12 am. She had a stroke and severe head trauma, and like everything she did in life, she fought as hard as she could. But, it was her time to go. She was 79 years old.
My mother was the strongest woman I’ve ever known. She came to this country from Korea not knowing anyone but my dad, not speaking English, and unaware of the cultural differences. Since she was an orphan at a young age, she knew how to adapt and be independent. So that’s what she did. Especially after my parents divorced. She raised two kids on her own, working multiple jobs and sacrificing her personal happiness for our well-being. She never complained about anything and had a huge heart. She treated everyone with respect and took care of the less fortunate. She was my real life superhero.
I will forever think of the 4th of July differently from now on. She has freedom from pain. She is a bright, shining star, and I will look for her whenever I see fireworks or stare off into a beautiful night sky.
I will continue to write about my mother and share her story whenever possible. It is a story of resilience, love and strength. And I will continue to write how I feel and what I’ve experienced to connect with others and show we are more alike than different.
Memories of My Mother’s Kimchi
I used to be jealous of my friends whose mothers baked chocolate chip cookies from scratch, or who knew how to make the perfect pan of lasagna. My mom’s idea of baking was burning the bottoms of premade Pillsbury cookies, and she often added ketchup to spaghetti sauce because, “It’s the same ingredients.”
However, where she lacked in cooking Americanized cuisine, she more than made up by making some badass kimchi.
The process of making kimchi usually started with my mom asking, “Do you want to go to the Korean store?”
I knew exactly what that meant. It meant picking the perfect bundle of scallions and cloves of garlic. It meant carefully examining each head of Napa cabbage or bunch of cucumbers. If we wanted to be a little dangerous and have an extra stinky fridge, we’d choose a giant mu (Korean radish) to cut up into cubes for kkakdugi.
Mom usually had the other ingredients at home, so we’d wander around the store and pick up items like naengmyeon (Korean buckwheat) noodles, dried seaweed and a giant 15-pound bag of rice.
Then I’d run to the candy and snack section. I’d wait until my mom was in line to pay to ask her to get me a bag of shrimp crackers or a pack of sweet rice candy. She usually said yes if other customers were around.
The anticipation on the ride home was unbearable. I loved freshly made kimchi as opposed to the traditional kind that is stored and soured over time. My mom knew it, so as soon as we got home, she would pull out her oversized tin bowl and go to work.
Watching her make kimchi was like watching a dancer on stage. She was quick and graceful in every movement:
Wash and salt the main vegetable.
Dice the garlic and scallions with a large butcher knife.
Put garlic, scallions, red chili pepper flakes, sesame oil, tiny salted shrimp and sugar in bowl.
Rinse the salt off the main vegetable and then chop into desired size.
Put vegetable into the bowl.
Mix all ingredients thoroughly with bare hands.
Taste a few pieces to make sure it’s perfect.
Put kimchi into container(s).
Eat with every meal.
We did eat kimchi with just about every meal. If we didn’t have rice or noodles, we would use it like a condiment on hamburgers and hot dogs. It tasted amazing on tuna fish sandwiches or mixed into Hamburger Helper.
Every Thanksgiving, I’d put piles of it on my plate. The juice would run everywhere and mix with the sliced turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes so every bite was packed with a spicy punch.
One of my favorite memories of eating kimchi was on Saturday mornings in the late ‘80s and ‘90s in Newport News, Virginia. I would get up early to watch cartoons like The Smurfs and ThunderCats. Instead of eating cereal like most kids did, I would eat a big bowl of rice mixed with butter and soy sauce. I’d grab the entire container of kimchi from the special mini fridge we kept in the garage and crunch it happily as I laughed at the screen.
If I wanted to be fancy, I’d eat it with a can of Vienna Sausage.
The year 1992, when I was 12 years old, is what I call my “glutton for kimchi” year. That’s when my mom told my brother and I she was divorcing my American father. I don’t remember one specific time eating kimchi, I just remember eating it all the time. Why? Because stress-eating it comforted me from the adolescent hurt and anger I felt towards both of my parents.
Throughout middle and some of high school, my mom had a small flea market shop called The Lion’s Den near downtown Newport News. She would sell stuff like giant hoop earrings, fake diamond engagement rings, incense and Starter jackets. I enjoyed helping her out on the weekends. She would make sticky rice in a small Zojirushi rice cooker and we’d eat it behind the sales counter.
I loved seeing customers sniff the air and wrinkle their noses when they smelled the kimchi.
For one high school birthday I invited a bunch of friends over for a party. My mom made bulgogi and kimchi. Twenty years later I still have some of those friends raving about how awesome her food tasted that day.
In college, I moved about three hours away to live on campus. Not only was I homesick, but I craved my mom’s kimchi at all hours of the day. I could be taking an exam, walking to class or sleeping in my dorm room and suddenly I wanted it. So, at least twice a month, I would drive my 1990 Honda Accord home to satisfy my cravings. Mom always had either fresh kimchi or kimchi soup with SPAM on the table when I arrived.
When I saw it, I knew I was home.
I moved to Maryland after college, but I always found a way to drive back to Virginia to have mom’s kimchi.
It was my solace after a few breakups, several bouts of anxiety and depression and a handful of job changes.
It brought me happiness after I got married and when I had my daughter in 2015.
It even comforted my mother and I after my father died suddenly of stage four lung cancer in August 2016.
I guess you could say that many times, kimchi saved me. It saved my sanity. It saved me from loneliness. Most importantly, it saved my relationship with my mother. Neither of us are good at talking about our personal problems or sharing our feelings, but when we made or ate kimchi together, we didn’t need to talk much.
We were together, and that’s what mattered.
A few weeks ago, I took my four-year-old daughter to visit my mom. In the kitchen, she had a giant tin mixing bowl sitting over the sink with the Napa cabbage resting in salt.
This time, I sat back as she and my daughter made kimchi together for the first time.
At 74, my mom still knows how to make a badass bowl of kimchi. She just does a few things differently.
Instead of taking the time to carefully and quickly dice up the garlic, she puts it in a Ziploc bag, sits on the floor and bangs it with a hammer. (Pretty awesome food hack, in my opinion.)
Instead of using regular sugar, she uses Splenda because now she has a mild form of diabetes.
Instead of using the smelly little salted shrimp with beady eyes that always creeped me out as a kid, she uses fish sauce.
Despite the changes, it still tastes damn good.
No matter how hard I’ve tried to make kimchi like my mom, it doesn’t taste the same. That’s why I have to eat her kimchi.
It’s the only kimchi that can make me feel vulnerable and alive at the same time with every mouth-burning bite.
It’s the best.
Now that I’m older, I do think that part of my love for my mom’s kimchi is that I associate it with my love and respect for her. I think of how she lost both her parents at a young age and how she came to this country speaking little English. I think of how she raised two kids as a single mom, often working multiple jobs to make ends meet.
I often think of how her food will be one of the last connections I’ll have to my Korean heritage after she is gone. My hope is to never lose that connection.
Originally published on Medium, July 24, 2019
She Embodied Strength
I asked my 9-year-old daughter what she thinks
“to be strong” means?
She said, “To be brave and willing to help others.”
I was proud and smiled.
Then I thought of mom.
I flashed back to a few weeks ago,
lying fragile in the SICU,
victim to a stroke and brain trauma.
unable to respond to our soft cries.
Even in that moment, she was being strong,
holding on until her children could make peace.
Every day since then, I think of her and how she exhibited strength.
She saw dead bodies and begged for rice in ration lines during the Korean war.
She lost both of her parents as a child and became an orphan.
She married my American G.I. father during the Vietnam War and moved to the U.S.
She divorced my father after 25 years because he chose alcohol over family.
She worked multiple jobs to raise two children and helped them go to college.
She continued to say my father was a good man, even after he died of cancer.
She forgave me when I followed his path and loved me when I got sober.
She survived and battled quietly without complaint.
She did all of this with a smile that could light up rooms
and a kindness that didn’t discriminate.
That’s what “to be strong” truly means.
That’s my umma.
I See My Mother’s Hands
How lovely, to look at my eight-year-old daughter’s hands,
at her long, slender fingers and half-painted
nails and think, “Those are my mother’s hands.”
Deep-rooted memories surface that reveal why her once
smooth hands are now rough and wrinkled.
Hands of a child that begged for food during the Korean War
and wiped away tears when both parents died suddenly.
Nails that broke repeatedly at the
dry cleaners where she sewed and stapled tickets for years, as
slender fingers stirred ramen with chopsticks daily for lunch.
Hands that held my U.S. soldier father’s hands in Korea,
always much smaller and colder, with
nails that anxiously dug into the plane’s seat after she married and
departed for America.
Slender fingers that danced with Napa cabbage while making kimchi.
Hands that picked up empty cans of
alcohol when dad had passed out on the couch.
Nails rarely painted because of manual labor jobs,
doing everything possible to support your kids after the divorce.
Slender fingers that balanced Virginia slim cigarettes for years,
holding onto hope for your family’s future.
Alone, again, like when you were young.
Nails scratched from grinding garlic and
drenched in sesame oil for the feasts you made to show affection.
Slender fingers holding cold food at dad’s memorial service,
haunted by his memory while surrounded by his wife and strangers,
anxious to return home and eat rice again.
Nails that lovingly scrubbed your only granddaughter’s head and
delicately scratched her back as she slept.
Slender fingers awkwardly dialing us to video chat.
Hands of survival.
Hands of love.
My mother’s hands.