Korean adoptee opens Seoul bakery café specializing in authentic American treats | By Sara Salansky (Summer 2024)
American visitors to Korea hankering for a taste of home can find it at SugaMama, an American-style bakery café in Seoul.
The café began after owner Christine Pennell moved to Korea. She soon found that she hungered for the American-style baked treats she had always made for her children and friends, never realizing that her craving would blossom into a business. . After two meaningful trips to Korea, she moved there in 2020.
She always wanted to live in Korea, and she also wanted to learn Korean and to find her birth parents. But the move soon became a more significant life change. Though “I didn’t say I moved here. But now that I have a bakery, my kids say that I have to say I moved here, and so for three and a half years I have lived in Korea.”
“I knew I needed to do something for work in Korea,” Pennell said in explaining how the business got started. “I didn’t want to be an English teacher. I was told that there was basically no authentic American baking in Korea, and when I’d go to bakeries, and wanted something with apples in it, there weren’t a lot of apples in it.”
Pennell said she wanted to get a sense of the demand for full-on American-style baking. Living alone in Korea, she missed baking and cooking for people. In April 2022, she started baking in her apartment using a tabletop oven, and gave items away to test the market potential of various baked items. She posted on a Facebook page intended for foreigners living in Korea (known as expatriates or expats) that she was giving away baked goods, and invited the group members to bring containers and try for free. At one point, a group member questioned her motives, after which the administrator of the group page told her not to advertise her free baked goods any more.
Despite being kicked off the group page, there was still demand for her baking. Pennell’s next step was to find commercial kitchen space. She struggled to keep up with weekly orders using the tiny oven in her apartment. In December 2022, she found an appropriate kitchen facility to lease.
Pennell said that, at first, she was just baking items that were pre-ordered, but after a few months in the new commercial kitchen, she decided to decorate and furnish some space in the bakery with tables, chairs and a seating area so that people could sit down and enjoy a treat there.
Soon, Pennell and her daughter Victoria were working with shovels and saws, building three outdoor sitting areas with pergolas and flower beds. During the heat of the summer in Korea, Pennell said, they were hard at work while the neighbors walked by wondering what was going on. SugaMama bakery café opened officially on August 23, 2023.
Without a persistent drive to live in Korea, this venture would never have happened. Pennell recalled that, for as far back as she could remember, she wanted to live in the country of her birth. As a teen, this longing deepened. She recalls having a fight with her parents, and her response was “I’m going to move to Korea!” She was not able to follow through on that desire for many years, but it was always there.
Pennell said she also always wanted to find her birth mother. When she was 24, she started looking, but didn’t have enough money to go to Korea. The adoption agency sent her a response of “there was no information on her family,” which was discouraging.
Pennell remembers a film she saw in 2017, Lion, Lion, based on the 2013 non-fiction book A Long Way Home, a true story of transnational adoptee Saroo Brierley, and how he sets out to find his birth family in India 25 years after being separated from them. The film inspired Pennell to continue to renew her search for her own birth family.
In researching everything about the birth search process, Pennell discovered a social media group called Korean American Adoptees. Through that page, she learned about a DNA match program that, sponsored by entrepreneur philanthropist Thomas Park Clement, through a DNA matching and search organization 325KAMRA. She got her first DNA kit free through the program.
Pennell visited Korea in 2018, her first time since she left the country in 1972. It was a three-week tour sponsored by her adoption agency. In addition to seeing tourist sites, she visited Daegu, the city of her birth. She also rented a car and drove to some coastal areas of Korea. She returned to the U.S. even more determined to find a way to live in Korea.
In 2019, Pennell found out through a DNA match that she had a sister who was adopted to a family in Belgium. The two met in Korea that same year. She also found out that she could apply for dual Korean-U.S. citizenship, so she started that process. In June 2020, on her third trip back to Korea, she returned as a Korean citizen.
In 2020, there were still many pandemic restrictions, but it was a perfect time to take a Korean language class on line, and study in her spare time. In October 2020, when all of the restrictions were lifted, she finally moved to Korea.
What is unique about SugaMama? Pennell stresses that she is not a professional baker, but has been a home baker ever since she was a teenager. She loves to feed people; she is especially happy that she can provide Korean adoptees with a safe place for them to hang out, talk in English and eat some good food.
Nothing suggests Asian fusion cuisine at SugaMama. It is authentically American, even the décor, and the products are organic and delicious. On the menu are favorite American treats like oatmeal dark chocolate chip cookies, peanut butter cookies, ginger snaps, and coconut macaroons. She also makes flavored breads such as banana bread and cinnamon rolls, as well as yeast bread, like baguettes and a sandwich roll. Pies and cakes are also on the menu, along with several different sandwiches to eat in or take out, such as a meatball grinder, a sausage, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich, and a tuna melt. Pennell said the fastest-selling items are her apple pies and funfetti cupcakes.
Korean customers can’t pinpoint why the American desserts taste different from Korean desserts and typically ask her “how?” She explains to them that she uses real ingredients like vanilla and sugar and cinnamon and real sprinkles that truly enhance the flavor of her desserts. This makes sense to Korean home cooks – she sees their heads nodding with understanding.
Pennell said she is happy to take requests for orders of things that are not on the menu. She will research recipes and make the item, provided she can find all of the ingredients, which is hard sometimes in Korea.
Pennell understands the link between food and feelings of home, and said she knows these feelings can be difficult for adoptees, especially those who are in Korea and do not yet know the people or culture. It can be very emotional, and sometimes lonely.
Her advice to those on the fence about moving to Korea is that a healthy perspective is the key to a positive experience. She asks the question “Are you moving because you think it will fulfill you, or you want to experience something different and new, or are you wanting to move because you hate being at home?”
Another piece of advice – the more Korean language instruction and practice, the better, since overcoming the language barrier is difficult. To communicate accurately, it may be necessary for newcomers to use the translation app on their phones “and that’s OK,” she added.
As hard as it is for American entrepreneurs to start a business in the U.S., not knowing the culture and doing business in a second language exacerbates all of those challenges in Korea. Pennell said success depends on “true friends” in Korea who can be trusted to help with the process.
SugaMama is located in the Gangseo-gu, Deungchon-dang neighborhood of Seoul, and directions are included on the SugaMama website: https://www.sugamamakorea.com. There is also a Facebook page and an Instagram page with delicious photos of food at: sugamama_korea.